Gday all
My name is Andrew I live in Margate Tasmania.
I was trying to find info on the C&B and found this site.
I have had a set of planes for the C&B for a few years and thought it was about time I started building.
Are the CAD plans available yet.

Andrew,

My name is Bob Pease, and I am the administrator for the Cliff & Bunting web site.

The site has only just been set up and it's good to have a new member.

I have built a Cliff & Bunting and have set up this web site to help other budding builders.

Currently there are 2 other new buiders, that I am assisting.

As you are aware, the drawings should be veiwed as " For Reference" only.

Please post any questions that you have on any aspects of the construction and they will be answered.

The club that I belong to has the biggest collection of C&B builders/owners and there are several of us that can help, for instance we have alternative drawings for water pumps and boiler designs that have been apporoved, etc.

I am curently re-drawing the plans in CAD for the owner of the drawings, however, they will not be available until later this year. You can build your C&B off the paper` drawings, believe me.

Welcome aboard and I hope we can help.

Kind regards,
BP

GDay Bob
Thanks for the welcome.
The instrution book that came with the drawings says it can be built without castings.
Did you use a set of castings for your C&B.
If so do think it was worth the cost.
E&J Winter has a set of castings in stock for around the $500 mark.

Regards
AG

Ag,

Yes, you can build your C&B without castings, however, it does make life easier with castings. I purchased the cylinder & trunk guide castings. The only other casting I would suggest is the 120t gear as the spokes are curved, and rounded, and is difficult to machine properly.

I have spoken to Ernie Winter and he is going to make castings for 2 current builders at around $120 each. I'll let you know when they are available. Live Steam Supplies on the Links Page also has C&B castings and may be cheaper than EW.

The blue C&B on the Gallery Page was made by Ron Vincent without any castings, the cylinder was made from a brass billet.

There are other builders that I hope to get onto the Forum that have had their own patterns and castings made so you may be able to arrange something with them.

If you want to make a start I would suggest you start at the front axle and wheels as the drawings are correct, is a stand alone part of the project that does not cost much to make and it does not need to match up with other parts that you may be waiting for.

Hope this helps.

Kind regards,

BP

Thanks Bob
Thats sounds like a good idea to me, the front wheels it is.
Just a quick question re the boiler. Did you build your own.
Did you use steel or copper.

AG,
I had my steel Briggs boiler made. The drawings in the Cliff & Bunting drawing set do not meet the current AMBSC code so don't use those.

A Cad drawing for a steel boiler will be available shortly and is the same design as my boiler, this drawing will be free. If you are a member of a Club you can get your boiler inspector to approve the drawing prior to building. This boiler design has been used in several C&B's so you shoudn't have any problems getteing it approved.

There are 2 members of this forum that are going to build their own boilers and will be sourcing the certified steel shortly. I'm sure they can help you in this regard.

Regards,
BP

Hi Andrew my name is mark gray I am one of the two members that bob is talking about I have started on the front wheels and along with Russell the other member we are waiting for the boiler plan to be approved.
When it has been we will be buying the material to build it I will let you know the cost, We may be able to by enough for 3 boilers that may cut the cost down for us all.
Regards Mark

Russell,

I will measure the tubes centres tomorrow and complete the drawing this week.

Regards,
BP

Hellow my name is robert living on Central Coast NSW. As mentioned I have had my planes for som years but due to them and famlie havent made a start untill untill reasently 12 mounths there about. As havent don any machining for many years started on front end. Made wheals out of 90 mm plate. Now looking at boiler & smoke bok,looks like steel is the way to go. Down loaded planes of boiler but where unable to open as it is a CAD file. Can you sugest how to change it so it will open with out CAD programe.

Regards Robert
Keep on Building :

Which is the best diff to construct I am building mine with bevel gears & with my son's I am thinking cutting straight gears.

Hi Lou,

If you want to build as close to the original as possible, then you should build the bevelled gear diff, as this is what the original had.

But having said this, I've not yet seen anyone actually build a bevelled gear diff for a 3" CBTE yet...
The reason for the strong preference for the straight cut diff, is that it simplifies the gear cutting enormously, and you don't really get to see the diff gears through the wheel all that well once it is constructed, anyhow... Like many of the aspects of building these engines, it falls down to builder capability and personal preference... Me, I'm starting out, so I built the straight-cut diff - which is the only piece I've actually assembled to date!

Russell.

Lou

I have seen a bevelled gear diff. The fellow who constructed it made the gear blanks and had the teeth professionally cut for a quite reasonable price (Was 10+ years ago though) . I haVE USED STRAIGHT CUT GEARS